Write Up - The Record

Eating Out: Table 8 in Montclair
Friday, December 2, 2005
By NANCY THORPE
RESTAURANT REVIEWER

One of the most delicious things about Table 8 - and there are many - is its atmosphere. This addition to Montclair's booming restaurant row is the picture of sophisticated chic. The walls alternate between exposed brick and expanses of tufted chocolate-colored fabric. Tall-backed chairs in blood red velvet flank square tables dressed with runners rather than tablecloths for a sleek, modern look. Gleaming white dishes in swooping geometric shapes turn every dish into an instant work of art.

Restaurateur Demitri Malki, known to many who adored his previous Montclair establishment, Dmitri's, is as silky smooth as the d?cor. A charming host, Malki keeps an eagle eye on the all-black-clad staff as it calmly, crisply works the crowded room. And trust me, it will be crowded. Table 8 is a bona fide hot spot, so you should probably call right now to score your reservation.

Of course, the best reason to go is the food, which is just as sexy as the setting. For example: a special appetizer of foie gras ($14) was positively decadent, the luscious liver quickly pan-seared for a whisper-light crust and served with strawberries in a honey-balsamic glaze.

The creative seasonal menu is the work of executive chef Michael Clampffer, formerly of the acclaimed Stage House in Scotch Plains and Dish in Clifton. So many things caught our eyes and imagination we decided to nosh while mulling it all over, sharing a plate of bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with rich Gorgonzola cheese and crunchy almonds ($9). What a delightful, smoky-sweet finger food! The roasted gulf shrimp appetizer ($10) was like a mini-entr?e, three large shrimp in a savory stew of tomatoes, olives and fragrant fresh herbs.

They were served with perfectly plump Israeli couscous enriched with Parmesan cheese. Not everything was perfect, but the few missteps were minor. Coffee was tepid, the bread dipping oil had a metallic taste one night, and my warm goat cheese salad ($8) seemed to have no dressing at all. Fortunately, the fresh field greens, tender baby beets and crisp, crumb-coated balls of tangy cheese provided ample flavor.

Crunchy crumbs also distinguished the meaty Maryland crab cake ($12), served on a bed of crisp, sliced asparagus and red peppers in a perky vinaigrette. I'm still not completely sold on the tart pur?e of Granny Smith apple that adorned an entr?e of sweet seared sea scallops ($23), but the accompanying black truffle red wine sauce was so head-spinningly delicious I would eat anything with it. Sauces were a big success across the board. Monkfish osso buco ($22), a clever seafood spin on the veal shank classic, came with a marvelous champagne butter sauce chock full of leeks and tender baby clams. The fish itself, served on its large backbone, was firm and sweet, living up to its nickname of "poor man's lobster."

A savory red wine veal jus enlivened the impressively tender grilled hangar steak ($22) and was the perfect partner to a delicious blue cheese potato gratin and market-fresh green beans. From the list of hand-rolled pastas, I chose the sheep's milk ricotta gnocchi with braised lamb shank ($19) and crossed my fingers. I've so often been disappointed by heavy, leaden bullets of dough. But here, the absolute opposite was true: They were too light and barely cooked, dissolving away into the lamb broth before I could even spoon them up. Nevertheless, the hearty stew with tender meat, wilted Swiss chard and tomatoes was a delicious fall treat.

Portion sizes are moderate, so saving room for dessert (all $7) should not be too difficult. I love the way pastry chef Jessica Marin incorporates traditionally savory herbs such as rosemary and thyme into her desserts. Her basil ice cream (part of a four-flavor chef's selection) was like a cool breeze in my summer vegetable garden. Hazelnut ice cream and mango sorbet also were very good, and the super-creamy maple was outstanding. Sadly, the molten chocolate cake was cooked through, with no sign of "lava," but it was still delicious served with chocolate sorbet and caramel sauce. My favorite dessert, though, was a creamy butterscotch cr?me br?l?e, with an oatmeal cookie on the side.

Table 8 is an exciting spot, and its patrons are enjoying the rush. The ceiling, glowing with a soft prism of colored light, does little to absorb sound, so the noise level of excited chatter is high. Bring your favorite wine, make those tough menu decisions, and just soak it all in. You're in for an interesting evening.

Email: dmalki@table8nj.com