Write Up - The Star Ledger

Star Ledger
Friday, October 7, 2006

Table 8
By S.J. Gintzler

At Table 8 in Montclair, the mood is refined, the food, sublime. Modern American fare such as roasted striped bass with goat cheese ravioli, broccoli rabe and oven roasted tomatoes in a thyme emulsion is served in stylish surroundings.

Ambience: The two-month-old sophisticated storefront restaurant is named for the best seat in the house, a communal table adjacent to a picture window, set aside for walk-ins. Owner Demetri Malki, formerly of Dmetri's in Montclair, presides over the sleek and sexy 75-seat eatery furnished with well-spaced tables and striking, high-back chairs covered in crimson velvet. Tufted wall coverings, exposed brick and soft rainbow lighting enhance the understated elegance.

Staff: Professional. Food: Globally-influenced, beautifully served. Start with a napoleon of tuna tartar ($11) with sesame crisps, tamari citrus sauce and radish sprouts or steamed mussels ($9) with sweet peppers and chorizo in a zesty red sauce. Entrees include Atlantic salmon ($21) with French white beans, Kalamata olives and baby zucchini in a tomato broth; Peking duck breast ($23) served with spaetzle, baby brussels sprouts, pancetta and herbs; kitchen-made pastas such as semolina pappardelle ($17) with lamb sausage, artichokes, broccoli rabe pur?e and a lamb jus and daily specials.

Peppery extra-virgin olive oil accompanied bread doled out by a server. Among the artful appetizers were dates wrapped in smoked bacon ($9) and stuffed with almonds and gorgonzola, served astride Belgium endive. It was a flavorful harmony of sweet, smoky, bitter and pungent. A beggar's purse ($10) of flaky, paper-thin dough filled with Moroccan spiced shrimp and bean noodles was embellished by a feisty relish of charmoula (a spice rub), tomatoes and garlic cream. Wish there had been more of the wonderful duck confit ($11). The modest portion came with bitter greens and toasted walnuts in a horseradish dressing.

A classic chicken Kiev ($19) nesting on a porcini and barley pilaf was jazzed up with a truffle herb butter filling, cider jus and tarragon vinaigrette. A somewhat dry roasted pork tenderloin ($20) on a crisp potato galette benefited from a moist apple/walnut/Gorgonzola stuffing and a cranberry glaze. One terrific pasta dish featured chunks of braised beef short ribs, squash and shiitake mushrooms over nicely seasoned, chewy tagliatelle ($19). Kitchen-prepared sweets and ice creams ($7) were excellent - white chocolate panna cotta ringed in fresh figs and a port wine reduction, butterscotch cr?me brl?e and crisp oatmeal walnut cookie, extra-gooey molten chocolate cake served with hazelnut ice cream and chocolate sorbet.

With its fashionable atmosphere and intriguing food, Table 8 is already a contender in Montclair's competitive restaurant scene.